One of my long time interests has been fragrances. From my first gift of JOVAN MUSK FOR MEN that one Christmas back in the 1970’s, I’ve been hooked. After a while the Jovan gave way to PACO RABANNE POUR HOMME, which gave way to a whole life time of smelling and collecting.
I like to participate in the premier website on fragrance, Basenotes, and have included reviews of fragrances that I have written there over the years. As you can see, the reviews are quite old and as I look at what I actually told the time to review, I can’t believe how many of these I never actually wore. But they are what they are.
My particular preferences nowadays tend toward the more aromatic end of the spectrum with many middle eastern fragrance oils redolent of amber, musk, and oud making up a large portion of my fragrance wardrobe.
Enjoy!
Philosophy The Fragrance by Philosophy
Actually reminded me of Mugler Cologne at first sniff, but direct comparison proved Mugler to be more bright and fresh. THE FRAGRANCE strikes me as very lemony and woody with a ginger spiked edge. I am surprised at the negative reviews I have seen online considering this is a major new release from a very popular house, but it is quite a different scent from the “Grace” line of frags. It really has grown on me. Although it is light it has great longevity and the dry down remains very pleasant for many hours.
16 December 2006
Not unlikable but more of a commercial type of frag than a personal one. Light, clean, floral, musk…suited to scenting diapers and detergent. If that sounds like how you’d like to smell, you be hard pressed to do better than Amazing Grace.
16 December 2006
I guess I am a blackberry fan. I love all versions of L’Artisan’s Mure et Musc and I love Philosophy’s Falling in Love. Light, sweet, berry filled and even a little green…you can pass on the shower gel but give the frag and the body lotion a try. It’s a very comforting scent that won’t break the bank.
16 December 2006
Gee. I want what the to sniff what the first two people are sniffing. This frag is nothing but pine scented toilet cleaner smell in a bottle. Very un-Philosophy like. There is nothing light and sweet about it…and it lasts quite a while on your skin. As it is December as I type, I am actually spritzing this around my home just for its Christmas tree aroma.
16 December 2006
Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur
This is one fragrance that has won me over in a big way. My initial impression of it wasn’t that great. I smelled patchouli burnished with a rosey glow which was nice enough but hardly anything mesmerizing. Yet I kept trying the scent and found that the smell of the earthy patchouli was really very comforting. It really was begining to remind me trips to the nursery and cultivating roses. Wearing it one sultry weekend, really helped me find the “boozy” quality of the plums and sweetness of the roses that can be found here. Now I truly love the way this smells. I guess this is really all about perception because without knowing a single thing about this fragrance my SO says I smell “like tea” when I wear it. And he is right! It is another perfectly valid interpretation. I think if you dislike patchouli, this scent won’t go about changing your mind but if all the “buzz” has caught your interest you owe it to yourself to give it a shot.
15 January 2006
Jovan White Musk for Men by Jovan
Not like most of the modern “white musks”. In fact, if I didn’t know what I was spraying I wouldn’t even think “musk” entered the picture. As already pointed out, this will not break the bank but to be fair it really doesn’t smell like a “bank breaker”. Having said that, this really isn’t drek. It is an amazingly unique fresh scent. It reminds me of minty apples with a light touch of something “green” thrown in. The whole effect is very light and clean. This really would be perfect for a weekend daytime of running chores or hitting the megaplex. You may have to mow the lawn so why the heck not smell clean and fresh while doing it?
30 December 2005
Upfront I would like to say that this fragrance simply bowls me over. It is so lush and beautiful, that I really am at a loss for words to describe it. It is a clean and fresh chypre (if there can be such a thing) that to my nose has a distinct and persistant note of apricot. I was drawn to the fragrance based on many descriptions that raved about its beauty and also its “masculine” edge. I agree with the assesments of its beauty, but I can’t say that I find anything commonly “masculine” about it. That is not to say this could not be worn by a man. This is a thing of beauty that should be shared and appreciated regarless of gender. The fragrance seems to last for about 4-5 hours and to me the scent is quite linear, smelling pretty much the same at the beginning, middle and end of its life cycle. Happily the bottle is equally gorgeous completing this sublime experience.
26 November 2005
Until recently, I have somehow managed to avoid owning a bottle of this, even though it has been very popular for over a decade. It is Chanel’s venture into the lucrative market of the early 1990’s fresh and green, and it stands as possibly the best of that genre. This aldehyde laden gem sparkles as expected, but has an incredible depth that is quite a surprise. Rather than distinct notes, my nose simply detects an melange of sharp green, infused with the most remarkable wood smoke accord that I have ever experienced in a bottled fragrance. I do not experience the legendary longevity that many report. If I say the scent lingers for 5 hours that really would be pushing it. Platinum Egoiste is powerful, however. I find that 2 spritzes are more than enough to fragrance me and my immediate vicinity. On the whole this is a quite nice alternative to modern subdued fresh/green scents.
26 November 2005
Paco Rabanne pour Homme by Paco Rabanne
This was the first fine fragrance I ever wore so when I recently bought a bottle, I anticipated many memories flooding back at first whiff. That didn’t happen. Whether it is my older sinuses or a “re-orchestration” of the juice, I cannot say….but this is not the scent of my youth. While similar, today the scent smells harsh. My memory of silky smooth,warm and soapy doesn’t mesh with the ragged, burny, soapy smell of today. On a positive note, the updated packaging is a winner. I am still giving this a thumbs up because it may be unfair to make a judgement based on memory.
13 November 2005
Recently I had become acquainted with some of Estee Lauder’s older fragrance releases and realized that many of them could be considered very masculine although they were being marketed to the fairer sex. One of these releases to draw my attention was Spellbound. Spellbound is one of the most unique fragrances that I have come across in a very long while. My first impression was amusement that this is considered a feminine fragrance. A man can wear this fragrance without the slightest hesitation I think.
Let’s cut to the chase and say this is a scent with the most pronounced and prolonged clove note that I can think of. If you don’t count oil of clove! The perfume writer John Oakes says that this note is achieved by carnations alone, but I would say that cardamom and actual clove is playing a role in achieving this effect. Being a dyed in the wool clove hater, I am amazed at my affinity for this scent. Lurking well underneath this intense screen of cloves is a bevy of oranges, orange blossoms, roses, sandalwood and amber. If you inhale deeply you can sense them, right under the surface. It is almost as if you sprayed oil of clove over your best fruity floral. While the in your face clove does last quite a while, I can honestly say it doesn’t outlive its welcome. As the hours pass, clove begins to relinquish its grip and begins to blend harmoniously with the flowers and the fruits and the woods that it has hidden leaving a wonderfully hypnotic FRESH melange; almost as if you have washed and applied a completely different scent. It is this freshness that is quite surprising considering the previous spicy onslaught. The freshness for me is what ultimately saves this fragrance. After 8-12 hours of wear, your skin is left smelling fresh and clean as if you had just washed with a wonderful French soap. If the clove had remained, I am sure headaches and sickness would have ensued. But to wear a fragrance of this magnitude and be able to end up feeling and smelling fresh as a daisy is, for me, a magnificent accomplishment. It is obvious that this scent is not for everyone and be assured it doesn’t know the meaning of the word “subtle”. But it is lovely in its own way and can be quite captivating.
If you are looking for a “scent for the season” to carry you through November and December I cannot imagine a better choice for you than this. This scent would be magical in the presence of a wood fire and good holiday cheer.
13 November 2005
The english translation of “La Nuit” is “The Night”. I suppose the brief for this fragrance could have read, “It will smell like a NIGHT at the Karl Lagerfeld Bondage rooms at Club 54”. And I suspect it does. This is leather, leather, and some more leather…but not the sweet suede of a Hush Puppy or the polished leather of an Aigner purse. Nope. This is sweaty, hot leather. To quote the Scissor Sisters, “It’s filthy and gorgeous”! There may be a rose or two trying to break through here and there but it doesn’t succeed. The only other scent I am able to discern is perhaps the Rabanne “House Note”, but that just adds to this amazing concoction.
Luckily I am a fan of leather scents so all of this makes it heaven sent. Of course with the sublime we have to take the ridiculous, and it is absolutely ridiculous that this was #1-released as a female scent and #2- that it has long since been discontinued. Perhaps the third ridiculous thing might be that if you do find it, chances are it is so discounted at this point that it is dirt cheap. If you are the slightest bit interested in leather scents, you’d better get some now before it is gone forever.
12 November 2005
This is one of the very few “clean” fragrances that lasts all day, always smells fresh, and doesn’t give me a pounding headache. A true winner! Most speak of the citrus blast from this orange wonder, but my love of it stems from the incredible peach note I smell at the very beginning. From that wonderful opening it remains clean, fresh and fruity through its “life cycle”. The shower gel, deo and aftershave balm all remain true to the juice and are great additions to this wonderful fragrance.
07 November 2005
Aveda Pure-Fume Tonic for Men by Aveda
It is difficult to describe this scent other than to say it is very warm and soapy. I love it. If you’ve ever shopped an Aveda boutique or spa, you know this smell. It IS Aveda in a bottle. The fragrance lasts all day and does get noticed. The only negative is the spray mechanism. It is more of a “squirt” mechanism than a “spray” one. If you enjoy the aromatherapy of Aveda products in general, it is a good bet you’ll enjoy this as well.
06 November 2005
Kiehl’s Original Musk by Kiehl’s
The antithesis to today’s omnipresent “fresh and aquatic” fragrances, the magnificent Kiehl’s Musk EdT is unabashedly down, dirty and musky. For those of us to have lived through any part of the 60’s or 70’s when musk and patchouli oils were the last word in scent, Kiel’s musk is instantly nostalgic. Wear it and you are transported back to the world of jeans, fringed leather vests and peace symbol pendants with Laura Nero records on the record player. If that time isn’t in your frame of reference, this not wholly masculine aroma might even remind you of your mother’s finest musk based perfume. Heck there are even references in this smell to your first bottle of Jovan Musk.
Initially this scent may seem quite “in your face” but eventually settles to wear very close to the skin. Amazingly, this quite assertive scent is also quite multidimensional.
Out the bottle there is musk mixed with an almost overpowering rose note. As the alcohol fades, you immediately notice patchouli kicking up her heels and begin a dance with the rose. Occasionally you notice a slightly sharp lily note trying to cut in, but it is basically the rose and patchouli tango with musk providing the music. This pas de trois lasts quite a while and after an hour or so they start to take a rest leaving the musk to play on with lily still twirling through occasionally. Kiehl’s says there are orange blossoms, bergamot and ylang ylang in the mix and these bring an occasional clean soapy smell to the mix which, although not necessarily “fresh”, is still quite refreshing.
At its heart, this is a musk fragrance. Make no mistake. This is not “white” or powdery and if you are not sure if you like true musk scents, you should not buy this blind. Even though it is synthetic or botanical in origin here, the “animal” quality found in true musk is still present. When I read that people smell sweat or barnyards or old ladies in this scent, I believe them! A lot of my enjoyment of musk based fragrances comes from the associations they bring with them. Luckily for me, all of the associations are happy, warm and nostalgic. Without those references for me, I shudder to think of what connections my brain would be making between the musky smell and objects or events.
I won’t even pretend to be able to discuss the intricacies of personal chemistry and resulting smell, but this will play a part in your enjoyment of this or any scent.
Kiehl’s Musk Edt may turn out to be your signature, or simply your weekend with jeans and a t-shirt scent. Anyway you can appreciate it, be happy you were able to find this treasure. Three cheers for Kiehl’s! They could have just as easily consigned this to memory and come out with a more sure fire commercial “scent of the moment”. They have my enduring thanks at their decision not to.
29 September 2005
A very run of the mill marine scent. A great pedigree doesn’t always produce a great scent.
12 September 2005
Patou pour Homme by Jean Patou
Hands down one of the best male fragrances ever created. Right up there with Antaeus and Eau Sauvage. Patou is heady, rich and very french. I still remember picking the bottle out at random from the Bloomingdale’s counter and spraying my arm with it for the first time. It stopped me in my tracks. Not many scents can cause a lifelong memory with their first impression but this did. I still have about an ounce left that I use sparingly since I never know if I will ever see it again.
12 September 2005
Eau Sauvage Extrême by Christian Dior
I really love this. This is the original’s more assertive brother. And that’s a good thing. I use and enjoy both. The citrus here is toned down and the basenotes are amplified.
12 September 2005
Every man should have a bottle. Classic citrus with a basil bite. Often immitated, never duplicated.
11 September 2005
Handsome pour Homme by Tova Borgnine Beverly Hills
Tova for men is the better fragrance. This is very musty and harsh.
11 September 2005
Tova for Men by Tova Borgnine Beverly Hills
This is amazing dry citrus fragrance with a light floral base. Of all the the hundreds of fragrances I have owned in my life this is the most complemented. I’ve had both men and woman track me down because they had to find the person that smelled so incredible. I am most often told, “You smell like you just stepped out of the shower”. Tova boasts that she uses no synthetics to formulate her fragrances and I believe that quality shines through here. An unknown masterpiece.
11 September 2005
Desire for a Man by Alfred Dunhill
I wear this scent and suddenly I am eight years old again and fresh from the barbershop. Probably not what Dunhill had in mind when they named this but there you are. I love it.
11 September 2005
Dunhill Edition by Alfred Dunhill
A fantastic business scent very at home in the boardroom. It makes itself known but is never pushy. A true Dunhill classic.
11 September 2005
Boucheron pour Homme by Boucheron
This is an amazing citrusy soapy fragrance. The EdP especially brings out those characteristics on my skin. Undeniably rich smelling.
11 September 2005
Sweet, floral, and spicey. Very pronounced and long lasting. A classic addition to your wardrobe.
11 September 2005
Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc by Bulgari
A nice try at extending the tea fragrance line, however the musk here is too pronounced. Instead of a tea fragrance it really is first and foremost a light musk fragrance. Not my cup of tea.
11 September 2005
Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert by Bulgari
I love this fragrance. It is so light and sheer but remains distinct. Sharp green tea with a spicey floral base. Wear it for any occasion at any time of the year. People will think YOU smell great and not that your FRAGRANCE smells great.
11 September 2005
Bulgari Aqua pour Homme by Bulgari
The “aqua” character of the scent quickly fades to a very woody scent on my skin. All Bulgari scents are well crafted and this is no exception.
11 September 2005
A very nice gingery scent. Cool and warm at the same time. I find it perfect for work as it is rich smelling yet not overpowering.
11 September 2005
It smells like burning tires on my skin. Spritzed in the air it has a much more pleasant sweet, smoky smell that is so much easier to take.
11 September 2005
A dry woody scent that wears very close to the skin. The woody smell quickly gives me a headache, I am sorry to say. Smells very rich and refined otherwise.
11 September 2005
Eau d’Hadrien by Annick Goutal
If a long wearing grapefruit scent is something you might like, here is your new scent. Enjoy!
11 September 2005
Eau de Monsieur by Annick Goutal
My nose must not be developed enough to appreciate this. It smells like the rotting leaves on the forest floor. Not for me thanks.
11 September 2005
My all time favorite fragrance. The smoothest, richest leather fragrance ever created. It is a masterwork of the perfumer’s art. It is a shame Chanel has cut back on the U.S. distribution.
11 September 2005
This really should have been launched with its own name and marketing campaign. To me it has nothing in common with the original Allure. Allure Sport is extremely bright and fresh and stays that way throughout its wear. It is one of the few sparkling aldehyde fragrances that doesn’t set off my allergies. There is a very muted floral note that developes after about an hour that really asserts its fine fragrance pedigree.
11 September 2005
Opens with a very clear cedar note and quickly mellows to a sharp spice. Useful for many occasions from dressy to casual. Very modern yet very Chanel.
11 September 2005
Chanel Pour Monsieur by Chanel
Bright citrus with a powdery finish. Low key and classic. One of the few fragrances I am actively allergic to, however. Whatever chemical is used to achieve the powdery smell is one that ultimately makes me sick, so I have never finished a bottle. If you aren’t sensitive to it, you’ll be very pleased with it.
11 September 2005
The Fat of Now 